Courtesy of guest chef Daniel Berlin, there was a special tasting menu this week at Aquavit to extol the flavors and ingredients of the Swedish region of Skåne. The style was contemporary, the flavors paradoxically earthy and clean, the textures complex and interactive, the plates photogenic in the extreme. A parcel of codfish, buried in a snowdrift of cauliflower that was crisp as ice on top and soft as powder below, held a delicate balance atop a vast white plate. A steaming and fragrant celeriac, slow grilled for hours, was cut open at the table by the chef himself, then scooped into an emulsion of tapioca and Scandinavian cheese. There were potatoes and sliced concavities of onion, holding little pools of pork fat, garnished with bits of charred leek ash that had the texture of a chocolate brownie crumble. That’s only what I have pictured: it says nothing of the warm raw milk dessert, the horseradish yogurt, the egg yolk among the brussels sprouts, the squab and the thin sliced mushrooms, and all the extras and amuses. My only disappointment was that, although the restaurant touted Skåne for “a bunch of newly opened boutique wineries,” there was no bow in that direction on the wine list or the offered pairings. For one of the best meals I have ever taken the plunge to try, it was a cop-out that I willingly and even gratefully forgave.

error0

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *